We bought Matador with a good idea of what was required and with the expert assistance of a hand full of professionals opinions on what was possible and what was not we set too.
Basics like rebuilding the two bilge pumps and the Lavac toilet pump (all three based on the same manual pump had the exit valves fitted backwards and were virtually useless). This and re plumbing the toilet and holding tanks into a working system was urgent for our test cruise. Also the replacement of 4 x 110 Amp hour domestic batteries which had been left on charge and dried out was an urgent issue.
We decided to sail pretty much as is for the remaining few months of the season and record the problems as they cropped up.
So end of the season it was time to start the proper job.
The first job was to set up heat Light and a Dehumidifier to make a winter work regime tolerable. A couple of fluorescent tubes and a roving work light, an oil radiator and a small dehod all from B&Q soon got the interior to a point where work could commence. Then, we took off any portable items such as cushions, cupboard doors, saloon table, floor boards, and the contents of lockers.
Next the boat was cleaned and painted white throughout lockers and bilges. Why white? Asked the chandlers, grey hides the dirt. Hint, If you have to work in bad light in hot conditions upside down inside the cupboards or under the floor it’s a damn sight easier if you can see what you are doing and it’s much easier to find the dropped screws and other detritus that finds its way inevitably to block the bilge pump. White reflects more light. Thanks to Tony for your help…
……Meanwhile Steph is at home stripping, sanding and varnishing the floor boards…….
Next came out the bulk of the plumbing,( more of it than I thought). All 7 seacocks, calorifier, pressure water pump etc. Two seacocks were in inaccessible places under the floor inside the cupboard under the sink. Guess what, they didn’t look like they had ever been turned off let alone been serviced and were consequently seized open!. A couple of hours and about 17 layers of epoxy and matting and a hole cutter soon moved them to a new home easily accessible for service and regular use. I replaced most of the flexible piping with stainless reinforced flexible water hoses and installed new filler pipe and repositioned the diverter valves and installed a carbon and several pump protection filters on the fridges and pressure pumps. I rebuilt several Blakes seacocks and replaced others with ball valve taps on the basis that they can be changed on the water if they give trouble and are cheap to carry as spares.
Out with the Engine. Pictures will give you an idea but every flexible hose was solid and perished. The water pump was spraying the engine with a fine salt spray and a thick sludge hid the rest. Assistance from a fine traditional marine engineer ( Big thanks to John) saw the engine stripped of large parts and an angle grinder removed the mounting bolts. In with the Crane and out home with the lump.
At the same time the mast was stepped and went off to the riggers ( thanks to Harry of The Rig Shop ) For a rebuild and re rig, including extra sheathes, attachments removed and re riveted or replaced, New Harken furler and secondary forestay.
With the engine at home, the bearers were removed, enter angle grinder,( most bolts were rusted through) and sent off for blasting and hot dip galvanizing.
The engine was stripped of all ancillary parts and a month of wire brushing and stripping, then a respray, first with “Noxyde” primer and then two coats of Rustolium. Guess what colour. If I have an oil leak I would rather know and see it then decide if attention is needed or not, so white it was. Various new parts were fitted including a 115amp 24V alternator and a 55 amp spare, Water pump, all oil and water pipes, gaskets and thermostat and housing. Various other bits were changed and the Gearbox levers were overhauled.
Some pitting was found on the propshaft which explained the water in the bilges so a new shaft was ordered and fitted with bearings and couplings etc.
That done, it was time to address the wiring. I think a rats nest would have looked tidier, a result of many years of adding on this bit and that bit of equipment with it’s own fuse somewhere or not. There was only one answer. A ½ day meeting with a good electrical engineer (Thanks Chris) and a few days later I had a plan to work to. Spec'd right down to the wire sizes needed and the breakers and panels required. Negotiation with Merlin Marine and all the bits were bought, including Lifetime ™ cables and all Lifecrimp ™ terminals, Blue Sea boards and circuit breakers.
A warning to anyone about to start this job. It takes ages to thread, conduit, mouse, crimp, label and heat shrink all the wires, but it’s worth the time if you have to revisit anything.
Meanwhile ……Steph started stripping in the galley……
To be continued….. for many years !!!
Basics like rebuilding the two bilge pumps and the Lavac toilet pump (all three based on the same manual pump had the exit valves fitted backwards and were virtually useless). This and re plumbing the toilet and holding tanks into a working system was urgent for our test cruise. Also the replacement of 4 x 110 Amp hour domestic batteries which had been left on charge and dried out was an urgent issue.
We decided to sail pretty much as is for the remaining few months of the season and record the problems as they cropped up.
So end of the season it was time to start the proper job.
The first job was to set up heat Light and a Dehumidifier to make a winter work regime tolerable. A couple of fluorescent tubes and a roving work light, an oil radiator and a small dehod all from B&Q soon got the interior to a point where work could commence. Then, we took off any portable items such as cushions, cupboard doors, saloon table, floor boards, and the contents of lockers.
Next the boat was cleaned and painted white throughout lockers and bilges. Why white? Asked the chandlers, grey hides the dirt. Hint, If you have to work in bad light in hot conditions upside down inside the cupboards or under the floor it’s a damn sight easier if you can see what you are doing and it’s much easier to find the dropped screws and other detritus that finds its way inevitably to block the bilge pump. White reflects more light. Thanks to Tony for your help…
……Meanwhile Steph is at home stripping, sanding and varnishing the floor boards…….
Next came out the bulk of the plumbing,( more of it than I thought). All 7 seacocks, calorifier, pressure water pump etc. Two seacocks were in inaccessible places under the floor inside the cupboard under the sink. Guess what, they didn’t look like they had ever been turned off let alone been serviced and were consequently seized open!. A couple of hours and about 17 layers of epoxy and matting and a hole cutter soon moved them to a new home easily accessible for service and regular use. I replaced most of the flexible piping with stainless reinforced flexible water hoses and installed new filler pipe and repositioned the diverter valves and installed a carbon and several pump protection filters on the fridges and pressure pumps. I rebuilt several Blakes seacocks and replaced others with ball valve taps on the basis that they can be changed on the water if they give trouble and are cheap to carry as spares.
Out with the Engine. Pictures will give you an idea but every flexible hose was solid and perished. The water pump was spraying the engine with a fine salt spray and a thick sludge hid the rest. Assistance from a fine traditional marine engineer ( Big thanks to John) saw the engine stripped of large parts and an angle grinder removed the mounting bolts. In with the Crane and out home with the lump.
At the same time the mast was stepped and went off to the riggers ( thanks to Harry of The Rig Shop ) For a rebuild and re rig, including extra sheathes, attachments removed and re riveted or replaced, New Harken furler and secondary forestay.
With the engine at home, the bearers were removed, enter angle grinder,( most bolts were rusted through) and sent off for blasting and hot dip galvanizing.
The engine was stripped of all ancillary parts and a month of wire brushing and stripping, then a respray, first with “Noxyde” primer and then two coats of Rustolium. Guess what colour. If I have an oil leak I would rather know and see it then decide if attention is needed or not, so white it was. Various new parts were fitted including a 115amp 24V alternator and a 55 amp spare, Water pump, all oil and water pipes, gaskets and thermostat and housing. Various other bits were changed and the Gearbox levers were overhauled.
Engine compartment with one bearer refitted. |
Some pitting was found on the propshaft which explained the water in the bilges so a new shaft was ordered and fitted with bearings and couplings etc.
The pile of removed fittings |
That done, it was time to address the wiring. I think a rats nest would have looked tidier, a result of many years of adding on this bit and that bit of equipment with it’s own fuse somewhere or not. There was only one answer. A ½ day meeting with a good electrical engineer (Thanks Chris) and a few days later I had a plan to work to. Spec'd right down to the wire sizes needed and the breakers and panels required. Negotiation with Merlin Marine and all the bits were bought, including Lifetime ™ cables and all Lifecrimp ™ terminals, Blue Sea boards and circuit breakers.
A warning to anyone about to start this job. It takes ages to thread, conduit, mouse, crimp, label and heat shrink all the wires, but it’s worth the time if you have to revisit anything.
Meanwhile ……Steph started stripping in the galley……
To be continued….. for many years !!!