Yep we have finally made the Algarve in the south of Portugal. On the whole the trip has been a good one but we have had to duck and dive from un-typical weather systems from across the Atlantic. Cascais saw us holed up for 3 weeks sheltering from 5.5m swells and winds from the south to south west up to force 8 or more. The wind should be North and force 3 but there we go.
The trip from Cascais was a fantastic sail for the first 20 miles but then the wind went through 180 degrees, then another 180 degrees 10 mins later, and then to nothing - meaning a motor in little wind to Sines.
Sines
Sines is a pleasant old, small town with a big port and oil refinery as well as a well set up and very modern , clean marina and comfortable anchorage beside the marina. We stayed only one night as more poor weather was expected to make the marina and anchorage uncomfortable and the trip south impossible, which could result in a reverse trip back to Cascais , some 60 miles and not one we wanted to repeat. We did have time to indulge our favourite pastime and search out a local restaurant for a simple lunch. The menu consisting of BBQ Chicken or Bacalau, a re-hydrated dried cod found all around Portugal. We opted for the chicken, as the smells of it grilling on open coals in the front window had first tickled our taste buds. The restaurant had 3 long benches at which were placed stools and paper place mats. Ordering was by calling over to the owner /cook and saying Frango ( chicken). A delightful and tasty chicken and chips accompanied by a generous green and tomato salad, ¾ l carafe of wine 1 beer , two coffees and a delicious pudim flam. Total cost 17 euros for the two of us, about 12 pounds. We left Sines harbour at 10pm the following night for the trip 75 miles south to the Cabo SaoVicente (Cape St Vincent) and around the corner to Lagos and the Algarve coast. We sailed in the company of an Irish yacht “ Noble Warrior” . This was his 3rd attempt to round the cape as he had twice met 35 and 48 knot headwinds on the headland and been forced to sail the 60 miles back to Sines- all this single handed. The trip was to be a night motor to the cape and a rounding in early morning before the wind could get thermal assistance and hopefully an easier rounding would be had. This is one of the first night trips we have attempted on the Portuguese coast due to the huge numbers of nets and pots encountered along this unforgiving coast. One and a half hours out into the night and we got a call from Paul on Noble Warrior to say his engine had overheated and stopped. We rounded back and stood by ready to tow him back to port but he was able to establish the cause and after about an hour we were back on our way.
The night was completely calm and partially cloudy but the moon had gone down and it was quite dark indeed. This was a bonus as at about 2 am we got dolphins. Dolphins in the day are great but dolphins in the dark are spectacular. Brilliant green underwater torpedoes coming from left and right straight at the boat, then a jump and a green splash and on the bow and along the sides of the boat they play, squeaking and leaping and demonstrating the agility and speed they possess. I think dolphins take to bow riding (playing in the pressure wave of the boat) like humans take to skiing. We had their company for a good hour when suddenly thud, graunch. The engine slams to a stop, alarms buzzing at ear piercing frequency and we are all alone in the black inky Atlantic. A glance with a torch soon identified the problem as a large piece of old discarded trawler net. I know fishermen live a tough and dangerous life but they take life from the sea and leave rubbish in their wake. I am afraid I have yet to see a fishing harbour that is not polluted with polystyrene, plastic bags and of course rope and nets.
It left us in a situation far from perfect, 35 miles south of the nearest port, 7 miles off the Atlantic coast with no engine and no wind to sail even if we could make any way with a large piece of fishing net firmly attached to our prop. We inflated and launched the dingy and using boathook and cutter we attempted to try to cut the net loose but in the dark and from the dingy it was a futile task so we tied the trailing ends of the net to ropes and pulled them as high up the side of the boat as possible to reduce the drag and accepted the kind offer of a tow from Paul on Noble Warrior. Time now 5am and Steph took the helm under tow and I tried to get some rest. I knew I needed to dive as soon as possible as we could only make about 3.5 knots and there was no guarantee that we were not going to see 30 knots of wind on the nose at the cape. I didn’t want to be under tow back north after all this. As soon as it was dawn we dropped the tow and lay out the drogue from the bow to stabilise the boat as much as possible then donned a wetsuit and scuba gear. Safety line attached and bicycle helmet on head I went under the boat armed with the bread knife which I had found was the quickest knife at cutting through the net.
Fortunately the waves were still very small so the boat remained relatively steady and the underwater operations were completed in about 10 minutes. I was pleased to be out though.
The prop free we hauled the dingy back on deck and tentatively fired up the engine, all seemed ok and I could only detect a slight vibration which would hopefully suggest that not too much damage is done but time will tell on the bearings. Another dive will be necessary as a precaution and further check. The rest of the trip was uneventful except for more dolphins and some stunning views of the cape. There was one particular dolphin, we named slapper, as he seemed to enjoy jumping and landing on his side to create the biggest possible splash of water. Either he had something wrong with him, or he was demonstrating his particular trick to impress us.
Fortunately the wind was kind despite our late arrival and we had a very pleasant sail from the cape to Lagos, along a pretty coast, not unlike the Dorset coast around Poole to St Albans head. Looking at the photos you may wonder what the fuss is about, but a 15m yacht arriving 2 days prior to this was surfing down 2m waves into the narrow harbour entrance!
Lagos
We were met on the pontoon by enthusiastic English liveaboards. Lagos is a large marina with a considerable English liveaboard community. They have their own net, (radio news and assistance session) 3 times a week on the VHF where help finding services, spares or medical assistance is available. Also you can learn about the bridge evenings and card-making lessons – can’t wait!
Day one and a good part of day two have been swallowed by cleaning the boat - outside and inside. The three weeks in Cascais where the spray from the massive waves continually poured over the harbour wall has covered the boat in salt and muck which feels sticky and never really dries. It gets inside the boat and then it feels damp so a good clean is a necessary evil.
After working all day, we had a few beers and a great pizza with a Swedish couple on a similar trip to us, so got up a bit late this morning. Here we are enjoying the rain again. It’s due to get better and despite the squalls it’s still in the early to mid 20s so still in shorts and t shirts. Life’s not so bad really!!
We also celebrated by dumping the fishing net in the commercial waste bins – where it should have gone in the first place!
The liveaboards have organised a ‘cruising symposium’ next Wednesday, so we may well hang around here for that. Between all the boats moored in this marina, they have probably covered much of the world, so we can hope to pick up on some advice about where to go and more importantly where not to go………it’s all too easy just to tie up here and not leave until the spring!!! Before we know it we’ll be going to bridge lessons!!!
If anyone would like to come and visit us while we are in the Algarve, it is an ideal time to do so. Flights to Faro are very cheap, and there is a railway line that runs along the coastal resorts with a train every hour. The water here is still 22 degrees and the sun is out today – it’s about 24 degrees. Maybe the perfect antidote to overnight frosts and winter gales.
(November 06)
The trip from Cascais was a fantastic sail for the first 20 miles but then the wind went through 180 degrees, then another 180 degrees 10 mins later, and then to nothing - meaning a motor in little wind to Sines.
Sines
Sines is a pleasant old, small town with a big port and oil refinery as well as a well set up and very modern , clean marina and comfortable anchorage beside the marina. We stayed only one night as more poor weather was expected to make the marina and anchorage uncomfortable and the trip south impossible, which could result in a reverse trip back to Cascais , some 60 miles and not one we wanted to repeat. We did have time to indulge our favourite pastime and search out a local restaurant for a simple lunch. The menu consisting of BBQ Chicken or Bacalau, a re-hydrated dried cod found all around Portugal. We opted for the chicken, as the smells of it grilling on open coals in the front window had first tickled our taste buds. The restaurant had 3 long benches at which were placed stools and paper place mats. Ordering was by calling over to the owner /cook and saying Frango ( chicken). A delightful and tasty chicken and chips accompanied by a generous green and tomato salad, ¾ l carafe of wine 1 beer , two coffees and a delicious pudim flam. Total cost 17 euros for the two of us, about 12 pounds. We left Sines harbour at 10pm the following night for the trip 75 miles south to the Cabo SaoVicente (Cape St Vincent) and around the corner to Lagos and the Algarve coast. We sailed in the company of an Irish yacht “ Noble Warrior” . This was his 3rd attempt to round the cape as he had twice met 35 and 48 knot headwinds on the headland and been forced to sail the 60 miles back to Sines- all this single handed. The trip was to be a night motor to the cape and a rounding in early morning before the wind could get thermal assistance and hopefully an easier rounding would be had. This is one of the first night trips we have attempted on the Portuguese coast due to the huge numbers of nets and pots encountered along this unforgiving coast. One and a half hours out into the night and we got a call from Paul on Noble Warrior to say his engine had overheated and stopped. We rounded back and stood by ready to tow him back to port but he was able to establish the cause and after about an hour we were back on our way.
The night was completely calm and partially cloudy but the moon had gone down and it was quite dark indeed. This was a bonus as at about 2 am we got dolphins. Dolphins in the day are great but dolphins in the dark are spectacular. Brilliant green underwater torpedoes coming from left and right straight at the boat, then a jump and a green splash and on the bow and along the sides of the boat they play, squeaking and leaping and demonstrating the agility and speed they possess. I think dolphins take to bow riding (playing in the pressure wave of the boat) like humans take to skiing. We had their company for a good hour when suddenly thud, graunch. The engine slams to a stop, alarms buzzing at ear piercing frequency and we are all alone in the black inky Atlantic. A glance with a torch soon identified the problem as a large piece of old discarded trawler net. I know fishermen live a tough and dangerous life but they take life from the sea and leave rubbish in their wake. I am afraid I have yet to see a fishing harbour that is not polluted with polystyrene, plastic bags and of course rope and nets.
It left us in a situation far from perfect, 35 miles south of the nearest port, 7 miles off the Atlantic coast with no engine and no wind to sail even if we could make any way with a large piece of fishing net firmly attached to our prop. We inflated and launched the dingy and using boathook and cutter we attempted to try to cut the net loose but in the dark and from the dingy it was a futile task so we tied the trailing ends of the net to ropes and pulled them as high up the side of the boat as possible to reduce the drag and accepted the kind offer of a tow from Paul on Noble Warrior. Time now 5am and Steph took the helm under tow and I tried to get some rest. I knew I needed to dive as soon as possible as we could only make about 3.5 knots and there was no guarantee that we were not going to see 30 knots of wind on the nose at the cape. I didn’t want to be under tow back north after all this. As soon as it was dawn we dropped the tow and lay out the drogue from the bow to stabilise the boat as much as possible then donned a wetsuit and scuba gear. Safety line attached and bicycle helmet on head I went under the boat armed with the bread knife which I had found was the quickest knife at cutting through the net.
Fortunately the waves were still very small so the boat remained relatively steady and the underwater operations were completed in about 10 minutes. I was pleased to be out though.
The prop free we hauled the dingy back on deck and tentatively fired up the engine, all seemed ok and I could only detect a slight vibration which would hopefully suggest that not too much damage is done but time will tell on the bearings. Another dive will be necessary as a precaution and further check. The rest of the trip was uneventful except for more dolphins and some stunning views of the cape. There was one particular dolphin, we named slapper, as he seemed to enjoy jumping and landing on his side to create the biggest possible splash of water. Either he had something wrong with him, or he was demonstrating his particular trick to impress us.
Fortunately the wind was kind despite our late arrival and we had a very pleasant sail from the cape to Lagos, along a pretty coast, not unlike the Dorset coast around Poole to St Albans head. Looking at the photos you may wonder what the fuss is about, but a 15m yacht arriving 2 days prior to this was surfing down 2m waves into the narrow harbour entrance!
 | |
| Cape St Vincent |
We were met on the pontoon by enthusiastic English liveaboards. Lagos is a large marina with a considerable English liveaboard community. They have their own net, (radio news and assistance session) 3 times a week on the VHF where help finding services, spares or medical assistance is available. Also you can learn about the bridge evenings and card-making lessons – can’t wait!
Day one and a good part of day two have been swallowed by cleaning the boat - outside and inside. The three weeks in Cascais where the spray from the massive waves continually poured over the harbour wall has covered the boat in salt and muck which feels sticky and never really dries. It gets inside the boat and then it feels damp so a good clean is a necessary evil.
After working all day, we had a few beers and a great pizza with a Swedish couple on a similar trip to us, so got up a bit late this morning. Here we are enjoying the rain again. It’s due to get better and despite the squalls it’s still in the early to mid 20s so still in shorts and t shirts. Life’s not so bad really!!
We also celebrated by dumping the fishing net in the commercial waste bins – where it should have gone in the first place!
 | |
| The net we removed from our prop! |
If anyone would like to come and visit us while we are in the Algarve, it is an ideal time to do so. Flights to Faro are very cheap, and there is a railway line that runs along the coastal resorts with a train every hour. The water here is still 22 degrees and the sun is out today – it’s about 24 degrees. Maybe the perfect antidote to overnight frosts and winter gales.
(November 06)
